by Ana Seidel, Vitaly Solomonoff & Doug Schoon
Have you ever ever heard the expression, “The world is getting smaller?”
The web has grow to be a double-edged sword.
We study actually superb things from individuals we’ll never meet physically. Our lives are improved immensely.
However… we also study really dangerous and damaging issues. The “Russian” manicure is a method that would cripple the international nail business.
In this article you will study:
- Why the Russian Manicure is taken into account a medical procedure
- What the pores and skin seems to be like microscopically after electronic bits have been used to “buff” the pores and skin
- Why this manicure apply completely damages the nails of over 90% of shoppers who obtain this remedy
- International statistics revealing how the reputation of this misleading manicure process will completely deform the nails of tens of millions of individuals.
- And the way to shield your self immediately
By Vitaly Solomonoff – Dermatologist, Beauty Chemist, International Nail Decide and Writer.
‘Beauty is pain’ is the well-known quote from Voltaire’s play, La Bégueule (the prude lady). This manifests when ladies are able to sacrifice every little thing on the journey to aesthetic perfection.
The Russian (Dry, Machine, E-file) Manicure Defined
The ‘Russian’ manicure—a variation on high-speed microdermabrasion with e-files, is seen as an efficient modern technique of removing unwanted dwelling skin as half of the preparation process of a nail service.
It is seen to negate the want for clipping, removers or picket sticks. Nevertheless, there are many considerations surrounding this technique.
The Perform of the Matrix
Frankly talking, we shouldn’t remove dwelling pores and skin surrounding the nail plate at all. The solely exception can be in instances when excessive skin or hangnails can turn out to be a supply of an infection.
The skin is a safe and robust guard to the most delicate and fragile structure—the nail matrix, which is the solely layer of germinative cells. That is the innermost layer of the dermis from which new tissue is consistently shaped.
The perform of the matrix is to produce keratin, the primary substance of the fingernail. The nail matrix is so delicate that elements of temperature, insignificant strain, minor accidents, and skin injury lead to irritation. These external elements might impression the formation of the normal wholesome keratin in the nail plate.
There are also a lot of inner elements, similar to well being and pores and skin circumstances which may influence the course of too. These elements embrace diabetes, psoriasis, and lung disorder, just to name a number of.
The incorrect synthesis (creation) of the nail keratin all the time outcomes when the nail grows. Modifications in shape, construction, texture, colour and even separation from the nail mattress (onycholysis) are all signs of injury to the matrix.
The unhappy information is that each one of these results are unpredictable yet might be seen immediately or months after chemical, organic, or mechanical traumatisation.
Every part we see on our nails is the end result of the matrix’s perform. Actually, once we speak nails we should always think about the matrix.
Three Yr Research – Surprising Everlasting Injury
Two years ago, my staff accomplished the research of greater than 300 instances of volunteers who recurrently undertook a manicure using this system.
The research continued for 38 months (over Three years) before we came to surprising results.
We found 91% of volunteers suffered signs of a damaged nail matrix or nail mattress!
Symptoms included all indicators of matrix/nail dystrophy from splitting, horizontal ridges, and sluggish nail progress.
Extreme instances reported painful neuropathy (nerve injury) and high sensitivity.
Lower than 9% of instances have been determined as protected and ‘successful.’
It was also discovered that infectious irritation is a standard situation with shoppers who’ve a compromised immune system—diabetes, and so forth.
This sort of irritation happens even when the manicure is performed with sterilized implements.
Microscopic cracks in the pores and skin which are accomplished during this sort of manicure are inseminated with microflora during the few hours after the process. After evaluation, we concluded that the supply of hazard from using this system consists of:
- Vibration – Even imperceptible vibration injured cells and induces the local immune response.
- Traumatisation – Injury, over filing or invisible (to the naked eye) micro-injuries even when a nail tech is certain his/her method is controllable.
All together, vibration and traumatization induce acute or continual irritation and a syndrome of repetitive trauma, which results in nail dystrophy.
Do We Want Irritation?
Did I imply ‘inflammation’ earlier? Yes, it was not a figurative expression.
We get used to considering irritation is something unpleasant, painful and associated to an infection.
Truly, irritation isn’t a symptom of infection, but an element of the human immune response and is a protecting reaction. It happens every time dwelling cells—and typically lifeless ones—are damaged.
The injured cell releases an alarm signal in the type of particular molecules—cytokines. Then immune cells get a name, and with blood move travel to the place where the organism has been injured.
The Good, the Dangerous, and the Ugly
Together with the native immune cells, the cytokines start a actual battle towards physical agents, chemical agents, or microorganisms.
Normally, inflammation leads to the therapeutic and renewal of the tissue.
Nevertheless, irritation might finish with either a constructive or damaging consequence.
- Constructive effects utilized in many cosmetic procedures from chemical peels to pedicure initiate this response to renew skin.
- Unfavorable results embrace ineffective inflammation. For example, micro-organisms overcoming the battle or when the process turns into extended or continual inflammation. The two elements of inflammation, cytokines, and toxins, constantly assault regular tissue stopping tissue repair.
Acute irritation is often a short-term reaction accompanied by redness, itching, swelling, and ache.
Continual irritation may be invisible at the begin and followed by deformity of the organs or tissues. Continual irritation can solely be observed over time.
That is the case with the “Russian” manicure. The matrix space, nail bed, and surrounding pores and skin are receiving constant, repetitive traumatization.
This repetitive trauma causes persistent inflammation does not permit for physiological tissue recovery.
The turnover cycle of pores and skin is roughly 30 to 35 days. Nevertheless, manicures could be performed more often.
It’s no marvel that this system leads immediately to varied nail signs and undesirable circumstances. Many symptoms are postponed and grow to be evident solely months after a single procedure.
Lengthy Term Injury
The fixed mechanical assaults carried out on the prime layers of pores and skin move alarm bell messages to underlying cells of the nail matrix. The chemical language of cytokines prompts the immune system response.
Consequently, the frequent activation of the native immune system means continual inflammation, which in turn affects matrix cells.
A deep understanding of the processes in reside pores and skin helps us develop right methods for any manicure system.
This requires particular information, training, and understanding of what occurs to the skin and nails whereas underneath assault from the vibrating, sharp bits of e-files.
Regrettably, we’ve NOT discovered a protected mode for this system.
E-files are magnificent instruments so let’s use them for essential occupations, not the manicure. In improperly untrained arms, e-files may be very harmful.
Information and advanced schooling are the ONLY approach to make this service utterly protected.
Let’s argue with Voltaire and show it to our shoppers—beauty might be painless.
(Reprinted with permission from the writer, Vitaly Solomonov and ScratchMagazine.co.uk)
By Doug Schoon, Internationally-recognized scientist, writer and educator
We would like everybody across the globe to remember of the issues of the “Russian Manicure”.
Somebody commented on my Fb page about their considerations that many won’t heed the warnings from specialists and I agree.
Hopefully, this drawback could also be self-correcting.
When individuals who use these methods start seeing the reported issues associated with these varieties of manicures, hopefully, they’ll take discover and stop this dangerous follow.
Like Vitaly wrote, signs individuals will see or expertise are:
- Extreme injury to the pores and skin around the nail plate
- Extreme regrowth of hardened callus-like tissue
- Allergic reactions
Not only can this technique cause the anticipated hardening and speedy/extreme regrowth of tissue, but the broken skin can also be extra more likely to develop infections.
Product-related skin irritations or allergic reactions are more doubtless as properly.
Invaders beware—watch intently for these points—and don’t blame the products.
Blame your methods.
I’m already hearing of, and seeing these issues.
One of the largest issues in the nail business is that too many nail educators are educating misinformation they discovered in the past. They’ve NOT stored up with their schooling.
And… it’s getting worse, not higher.
Many people educating this manicure preparation method are well-known artists. Some mistakenly consider they know what they are talking about—but typically they don’t.
These educators are harming the nail business with each class they train!
Simply because somebody can bling out a nail, doesn’t imply they have a real understanding of the nail or using products and are following the producers’ instructions.
“Internet famous” does NOT imply “knowledgeable”. It only signifies that they’re artistically expert.
There’s a huge difference! Don’t be fooled.
Sterilizing Is Not Enough
There is a probably harmful fantasy stating that sterile implements or electronic bits can’t trigger infections.
What? In fact they will.
The “Russian Manicure” is considered an invasive manicure. Invasive manicures are prohibited in lots of states, provinces or nations because they injury pores and skin and make it considerably extra vulnerable to infections.
This infection danger can last for many hours and maybe for several days. The pores and skin will remain vulnerable to infection until the injury heals.
Chopping the skin that borders the nail plate increases the shopper’s danger of infections, even after they depart the salon. I like to recommend that you simply don’t do that.
Someone informed me, “Well, I’ve never heard of that happening”.
In fact not! Who would brazenly admit they reduce their shoppers pores and skin round the nail plate and cause an an infection? But, I’ve seen this occur many occasions!
A Medical Procedure
The use of an e-file to clean, buff, or abrade the skin around the nail plate is taken into account microdermabrasion.
Many states in the United States of America prohibit the use of the information to solely the nail plate. Different states require special medical licenses.
In many places, nail technicians usually are not allowed to carry out these providers.
Examine your local laws and together with your insurance company. This system is probably not coated by your insurance coverage and can put you in critical monetary danger.
Even calluses shouldn’t be utterly removed from the skin resulting from the elevated danger of infection.
Is It Value An Arm Or A Leg?
The skin on the ft or palm of the hand is many occasions thicker than the nail fold surrounding the pores and skin.
Infections in the pores and skin round the fingernail can shortly unfold to bone and end in amputation of a finger or palms.
This isn’t hypothesis!
It occurs far too incessantly and is a problem the nail business must clear up.
Manicures ought to be protected and not endanger the public’s well being.
NEVER deliberately minimize or abrade the pores and skin round the nail plate. That’s hassle waiting to occur.
Everlasting Allergic reactions?
It is even more foolish to put UV gel manicure merchandise or different nail coatings instantly towards this broken pores and skin.
Broken pores and skin is way extra more likely to turn out to be irritated or develop permanent allergic reactions to nail products. More hassle is ready to occur. Don’t do it!
Shield the skin round your shoppers’ nails. Don’t invade it.
Educate your shoppers about the danger of any invasive procedures and advise them towards letting anybody reduce or abrade this skinny and sensitive tissue.
I’ve revealed “Nail Structure and Product Chemistry”, in addition to a collection of three books referred to as “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”, Volume 1-Three.
I’m a nail scientist. My books are factual and based mostly on scientific and medical research.
My opinion is predicated on over 20 years of experience learning nail salons, products, providers, and widespread practices.
Sadly, most nail technicians do not hassle to learn my books, which is why we are on this schooling mess.
The information are there for many who need to study them.
Information is Energy
For my part, in case you are a nail educator, you MUST read all three of my “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon” books or it is extremely doubtless you’re are educating misinformation.
This means you’re half of the drawback.
In case you are a shopper, study what procedures are harmful and don’t let a nail technician harm you. You’re the greatest advocate in your body.
My books are straightforward to read and perceive, so please help to be an element of the answer and save the business from sinking any deeper.
These books are available round the world from Amazon, iTunes, and obtainable in the Nook and Kobo formats. They’re obtainable as both printed and e-books. They are low value, and straightforward to get.
Please read them. You’re accountable to offer wholesome and protected manicures to your shoppers.
The Final Check
Before you think about taking a category from ANY nail educator FIRST ask them… have you read all three volumes of “Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon”?
Reprinted with permission from Doug Schoon
As you’ll learn under, the most startling info is what number of nations do not require licensing.
Because of this ANYONE can begin a nail profession with no training!
Educators are going to different nations educating nail methods without licenses to teach in these nations.
- Market Measurement: $eight.53 billion
- 56,386 nail salons
- 439,751 nail professionals, 31% don’t work in a salon
- Ethnicity: 36% Caucasian, 56% Vietnamese, 8% different
- Licensing: Required in all states, except Connecticut
- Market measurement: $5 billion (hair and nail salons)
- Licensing: Solely in Manitoba, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, although outdoors of these jurisdictions some aspiring techs do nonetheless opt for formal schooling and coaching
MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA
- Market measurement: $138.2 billion (estimated between 2014 and 2020 for South America, Central America, and North America)
- Licensing: Varies by nation, but sometimes minimal or nonexistent
- Market measurement: Annual magnificence spending is £876 (US$1,270) for ladies and £711 (US$1,zero31) for men
- Licensing: Inconsistent — some elements of London require licensing but each council makes its own guidelines; no government licensing outdoors of London
- Market measurement: €2.5 billion (US$2.8 billion)
- Licensing: None for manicures or pedicures; cosmetologists (hair and pores and skin professionals) and podiatrists (those that concentrate on the well being of ft) do have licensing necessities
- Market measurement: R25.Three billion (US$1.9 billion) for all cosmetics and private care collectively
- Licensing: No government licensing; many nail faculties but no normal curriculum
- Market measurement (beauty): USD$14.6 billion (RUB 555.1 billion) in 2014
- Education: Certificate of Training Completion earned from nail faculty; no license required
- Market measurement: $3.5 billion in 2015 (all skilled salon providers mixed)
- Licensing: None required by the government; multinational organizations and nail brands supply their own certifications by way of designated training amenities
- Market measurement: $541.2 million
- Schooling: Nail programs obtainable at beauty faculties but many nail professionals are self-taught; no government licensing
- Market measurement: 160 billion yen (US$1.four billion)
- Licensing: Personal licensing by way of Japanese Nailist Association and nail manufacturers; no authorities licensing
- Market measurement: 931,000 VND (US$42) common annual per-woman spending on beauty providers (consists of hair, pores and skin, eyebrows, nails, and other skilled magnificence providers)
- Licensing: No authorities licensing; some faculties problem certificates upon commencement
Statistics Supply: NailsMag [https://files.nailsmag.com/Handouts/NABB2017-18stats-LR.pdf]
We only get one physique and it’s our duty to care for it by way of the many years.
We make decisions day by day which are wholesome or damaging to our well being and wellbeing.
And, we stay in a world now the place we could be educated and influenced by individuals all over the globe.
First, do no harm…
As you’ve discovered in this article, there are specific nail care and nail enhancement processes that must be achieved by nail professionals.
Others should solely be carried out by medical professionals. The “Russian Manicure” is microdermabrasion and is a medical process.
As a nail skilled, you’re responsible to study and follow protected nail care and enhancement methods.
Your shoppers’ nails change over time.
As an artist, you’re solely as good as the canvas you prepare. Are you doing it right?
Are you adapting as new medical information is discovered about nails?
Credit score: artnikitina.ru
There is a phrase in medical schooling which frequently will get aired at the welcoming lecture to medical faculty: “50% of what we teach you over the next five years will be wrong, or inaccurate. Sadly, we don’t know which 50%” [Source: Blog Postgraduate Medical Journal ]
Product chemistry modifications over time.
Are you studying from the product manufacturers repeatedly? What you discovered in nail faculty may be very out of date.
You will have a duty to take persevering with schooling programs to stay at the prime of your subject.
You owe that to the well being of your shoppers’ nails.
Let the buyer beware…
As a shopper, you’re responsible to know what nail preparation procedures will harm your body.
Now it’s necessary to educate your self.
You recognize the names and features of your muscular tissues, bones, and inner organs. It’s essential know the names and features of the elements of your nails.
You determine together with your money.
Don’t trade your hard-earned cash to let somebody probably completely injury your nails.
If it hurts, make them cease. When you bleed, make them cease.
Don’t let a nail professional harm you because you “don’t want to hurt their feelings.”
And, don’t assume that they’re doing things as a result of “they have more education.” Rather a lot of them don’t.
Since the world is getting smaller, we owe it to ourselves and each other to keep it safer.